So, it is almost time to head out for this weekend’s adventure, and I am just now getting to the pictures of last weekend’s. I guess it can’t all be fun and games – it isn’t vacation after all.
Last Friday evening we took the train to Lucerne (or Luzern if you are German speaking). After dropping our bags off at the hotel, we walked around the city, and it was absolutely beautiful. The city of Lucerne is at the top of Lake Lucerne and you can actually look across this stretch of the lake at the city on the other side. Anyway, the point is, it is really quite beautiful when it is all lit up and you can see the reflections in the water. To the south you get the hint of mountains in the darkness and perhaps some smaller towns on the south shore.
Saturday morning we woke up and started walking towards a place that, according to the internet, we could both eat a good meal for under 12 CHF. This sounded about as feasible as seeing Santa Claus, riding a unicorn, following a flying pig (in case it is not evident, Switzerland is EXPENSIVE), so we had to check it out. Low and behold, it was true! We continued to walk down the eastern shore of Lake Lucerne until we got to the Verkershaus (The Swiss Museum of Transport). On display outside of the museum, they had one of the cutting heads from the tunnel boring machines that dug the Gotthard Base Tunnel under the Alps (it is 57km/35.5mi and currently the longest of its kind). We didn’t get to taking any pictures inside the museum, but for two engineers it was pretty much AMAZING. I think that this is how some people feel about being in an art museum. Don’t get me wrong, I love art and am glad that it is part of the world, but I don’t fully appreciate it the way that I appreciate feats of engineering, and the story of Swiss transportation (specifically rail travel) is incredible to me. With the museum having occupied most of our day and the promise of a great hike the next day, we spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying a beer and some Swiss food at a restaurant on the river, walking around a bit more, and finally eating Doner Kebabs on the lake shore, fending off the hungry ducks. Seriously, apparently Doner Kebabs sound tasty to a mallard.
Sunday was, in a word, epic. We took the local train from Lucerne to Alpnachstad where the trail head for Pilatus is. The mountains and the water and the nearly perfectly clear morning we just stunning. The mountains of Western Colorado and Wyoming elicit a similar feeling of awe, but this was uniquely Swiss, because, where else would you have a cog railway leading to the top of the mountain? After watching the first of the trains head up the mountain, we found the trail and started the trek up. The clouds started to roll in (not rain clouds like the day before) and the peeks around us would appear and disappear from view. The first half of the hike was largely in a forest. We had a debate as to whether forests all pretty much feel the same or if they are unique and didn’t reach a conclusion, though I still hold to my, perhaps very unpopular, view that they feel largely the same no matter where you are, assuming similar foliage. Yes a predominantly evergreen forest will be different from a predominantly deciduous one. But anyway… where was I? We left the forest and found that we had crossed over the rail tracks without knowing it (tunnels). At this point we were pretty near the middle station where we thought we could get some water to refill our bottles. Fat chance! Good thing we hadn’t finished it, we could make it to the top!
The second half of the hike was comprised of mainly alpine meadows and steep rock faces. We figure that there must be some pretty amazing rock climbing to be had up there – something to consider in the future. The alpine meadows are also the grazing grounds for dairy cattle, which we heard long before we saw them. In Switzerland, all of the cows (that we have seen so far), wear large bells. The bells are mostly hand made, and each one is a little different. They ring as the cows move (which they do a lot of in their quest to feed themselves), and the result is a fantastic music that carries through the fog and clouds. It was pretty cool!
Cow Chorus
When we arrived at the top, completing our four hour journey, we were greeted by the sounds of a brass band and then later by Alpenhorns. The view was spectacular, and interesting, because you had to catch glimpses of it through holes in the clouds. We turned our interests towards eating and then finding some water. Well…it turns out that when you own a hotel/restaurant/store on top of a mountain, you can get away with not having drinking fountains and charging 9.50 a bottle for water – lesson learned. $20 lighter, we started walking around to the peaks of the mountains that the hotel is nestled between. Again, it was totally worth all of it, it is just so pretty.
Alpenhorn Call
Our trip back down the mountain took 40 minutes on the cog railway. The steepest part of the track is a 48% grade, but the cars are built so that you stay upright throughout the trip. The original builder and owner of the railway, Eduard Locher, actually designed a new cog system just for this application, because the slope was too steep for previous designs. They would have fallen out and the cars would have toppled down the mountain. The central track is essentially a rack that two gears on the car grip. These rails are the original ones and have been there for over 100 years. On their centennial, they decided that the rack was getting a little worn, so they flipped it over to the unworn side, and figure they can get another 100 years of use out of them. Wow! The views on the way down were as stunning as the ones on the way up. At the bottom we headed for the “flat” train system and back to Lucerne for some more walking, gelato, and dinner before heading back to Zürich. All in all, an amazing weekend!